Monday, December 21, 2009

December 21st, 2009

Today was another wonderful day, although I have to admit it was a bit of a blur! We had a relatively early start to the day again, but after a solid night’s sleep, it wasn’t too painful. We had another tasty buffet breakfast (thought not as good as the one in Agra which was seriously top notch!), complete with sweet Indian tea. Indian tea is something I’m definitely going to miss when I’m back in Canada – I’m definitely going to have to learn how to make it. I bought all kinds of interesting black teas to bring back, so now I just have to learn the right ratio of ginger and spices to add (not to mention milk and sugar).

Lal picked us up promptly at 8am, and we headed into the old part of the city to meet our tour guide for the day. Our first stop was at the Hawa Mahal, or palace of winds, although we didn’t actually get to go inside. The old city of Jaipur is really interesting – there is a bylaw (don’t know if it’s the right word, but same type of deal) that says that all of the buildings that are built there have to be pink (Jaipur is known as the pink city). This stems back hundreds of years, when the King decided to paint the city pink as a welcome for the visiting Prince of Wales (pink is the colour of welcome). We only made a brief stop to take photos of Hawa Mahal (and meet up with the tour guide) and then we were off to Amber.

Amber is a city that is over 1000 years old, and sits on a hill about 12 km away from Jaipur. The Amber Fort, which was our main reason for visiting Amber, sits 54 meters up the side of this hill, and is an imposing, but beautiful, yellow structure. It was built by Raja Man Singh, the Commander in Chief of Akbar’s army, in 1592, although it was not completed until later, by his descendant Jai Singh. To get up to the fort you have a choice of taking the stairs or taking an elephant ride –we of course, chose the elephant ride! Our elephant was huge and adorable. She happened to be the slowest of the bunch though – we were passed by at least 7 other elephants on our way up to the Fort. It was a really neat experience, riding up the hill to the Fort – looking behind you, you see a whole line of other elephants trekking up as well. Very cool! I did feel kind of guilty about the ride. I didn’t want to contribute to the elephants being kept in poor conditions, or being treated badly. We were assured that each elephant only makes 5 trips up the hill per day (and only 2 per day in the summer) but I still feel kind of bad. Our elephant driver kept trying to encourage our elephant to go faster by whacking him with a stick, and I didn’t like that too much.

The Fort itself is really beautiful inside. The elephants take you directly into the large main courtyard. From there we went to see the “hall of public audience” or Diwan-i-Am. We then entered the palace area through Ganesh Pole, a beautifully painted (and still fully original – no restoration done!) gate. My favourite part of the palace area was the Sheesh Mahal. The Sheesh Mahal was the private chambers of the Maharaja and his queen and are decorated fully with glittering mirrors, arranged in mosaics. We tried to take photos, but the photos can’t fully capture its beauty. I can only imagine what it looked like at night when the Maharaja would light oil candles so that the candle-light would reflect off of the thousands of mirrors inlaid in the walls and ceilings. It must have been incredible!

On our way out of the Amber fort we saw a real snake charmer! It was crazy cool (and kind of creepy!). He had a real (small) cobra in a basket, and was playing music on a flute, while another man played the drums.

After visiting the Amber fort we made a quick stop to take photos of the Water Palace – a palace built directly into a man-made lake. Apparently the lake totally dries up in the summer, but is full of water right now. I’m pretty sure that you can only reach the palace by boat at the moment!

Our next stop was Jantar Mantar, a large astronomical observatory constructed in the 1700s at the request of Jai Singh. The observatory was really cool – it’s basically full of large sundials that tell not only the time, but also astrological signs . The Jantar Mantar is actually home to the world’s largest sundial – a huge structure (seriously, its as tall as small house) that is accurate to 2 seconds! Can you imagine? That’s almost as accurate as my watch!

After visiting the Jantar Mantar, our tour guide wanted to show us some of the handiwork that Jaipur is famous for. We probably should have been wary when he said that (a lot of these guys work on some degree of commission) but we thought it might be neat to see. We started off with block printing. The place we went had a little demonstration area, where we got to actually try our hand at making a block printed elephant! It was neat! The downside, was afterwards the guy that had demonstrated the block printing took us into his store. It was pretty high pressure – he wanted to show us all of the expensive stuff he had. Priyanka ended up buying some fabric for her friend who is a seamstress, but I thankfully was able to avoid buying anything. Next, the guide wanted to take us to a place that did gemstone cutting and polishing. We politely watched the demonstration, but having learned from the last shop, declined going into the store. We both knew that we wouldn’t be able to afford any gemstones, and didn’t want to get roped into anything.

At this point it was time to say goodbye to our tour guide and head to Delhi! I have to say, although this tour guide was quite good, and very knowledgeable, my favourite that we’ve had so far, has still been Amit. He really set the bar high!

Our drive to Delhi took around 5 hours, and we settled into our hotel at about 6:30. The hotel is nothing too exciting. I think our first hotel (which we had upgraded to a four star) really set our expectations high, so nothing can really measure up to that at this point. Our first room didn’t smell very nice, so we got them to move us to another room which is much cleaner. We ended up meeting up with Priyanka’s cousin and her husband (who funny enough live literally around the corner from our hotel!), and went for dinner at a yummy vegetarian Indian fast food place! The meal was really good – after I finished eating my food, Priyanka’s cousin said to me that if I could taste her food, and not have steam coming out of my ears, that I was a true honorary Indian. I tasted it (it was a mushroom and corn dish) and lo and behold, didn’t actually find it that spicy! It actually seemed rather sweet! I’ve always enjoyed spicy food, but I think my spice tolerance has definitely increased on this trip!

Now we’re back in our hotel, and settling in again for the evening. I’m pretty tired after our long and exciting day! Tomorrow should be another busy but nice day – I think we’re getting a city tour of Delhi, and hopefully going to have a chance to shop in some of the government emporiums. I can’t believe that tomorrow is my last day in India! I’m looking forward to coming home (and really excited for Christmas) but it is definitely bitter sweet. What a life changing experience this all has been!

December 20th, 2009

Today was a fantastically awesome day! We woke up pretty early, and each took a lovely, hot shower in the luxurious bathroom. Priyanka even straightened her hair! After packing up our stuff we headed downstairs for the hotel’s buffet breakfast (which was included in our stay!). On the way downstairs I remarked to Priyanka that I would love to have some French toast for breakfast, but that I doubted that there would be French toast in the buffet. Lo and behold there was French toast! And lots of other goodies, including yogurt, fruit (fresh pomegranate and papaya!), and a made to order omlette bar! It was really yummy and satisfying.

After breakfast we met up with Lal and Amit for an early tour of the Taj Mahal. Visiting the Taj Mahal is one of the things I’d most been looking forward to about India, so I was super excited. The Taj Mahal was built in the mid 1600’s by Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. It is said to be a testament to his love for her, and “a teardrop on the face of eternity”. The Taj Mahal took 22 years to build, and the gate that leads to its entrance has 22 domes on it to represent this time.

The Taj Mahal is a truly amazing structure. Neither words, nor photos can really describe it. Being there was really surreal – I just kept thinking to myself I can’t believe that I’m standing in front of the Taj Mahal in India! This is unbelievable! It was a pretty misty morning, and the mist combined with the smoke from the fires that people in Agra burn at night (to keep warm) made it hard to get a really good photo, but we took a bunch anyways. Amit knows all of the good photo spots around the Taj Mahal, so he showed us the best places for photos, and was nice enough to take some photos of us posing in front of it. We even got photos on the famous “Diana Bench” where Princess Diana once sat.

When we got closer to the building we could see exactly how ornate and intricately decorated it is. It is exactly symmetrical, even down to the fact that there is a Mosque on one side of the Taj, and an identical guest house on the other. The whole thing is made of white marble, and there are carvings and inlaid stone work everywhere. You have to take off your shoes (or wear shoe covers) to enter the Taj Mahal, so everything is really clean. Inside the actual building you can see the area where Mumtaz Mahal (and Shah Jahan – who actually wanted to be buried in a matching black Mahal across the river which was never completed) are buried. You can’t go down to where the actual graves are, but there are stone casket type things in the center of the building (and I’m assuming they’re buried deep beneath those). The inside is totally ornately decorated with inlaid stone work. Its pretty amazing – some of the stones are very translucent, so if you shine a light at them they light up like crazy. It is very beautiful!

Amit showed us all around the building, and told us of the tradition where when newly married couples come to the Taj Mahal, the husband is supposed to carry the wife around the building seven times, which is supposed to bring good things to their marriage. I guess this brought us to the topic of marriage, because he started joking with me that I should marry him, and that he’d carry me around the Taj 7 times. Priyanka mentioned that my father had given her strict instructions not to let me get married off to anyone while in India, and Amit found this hilarious. He proceeded to offer me a dowry including several elephants, cows and goats to help win my father over. It was pretty funny J

We spent a little bit longer wandering around the grounds and just breathing in the beauty of the Taj Mahal. Soon it was time to get going though, and head out to Jaipur. This meant it was time to say goodbye to Amit, which was sad, because he really was an excellent tour guide.

On our way to Jaipur, we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, a former capital, built by Akbar in the 1500s. The “city” was only used for a few years before Akbar left to deal with military issues in a different part of the country. At Fatehpur Sikri we got a different guide, who definitely didn’t meet up to the high standards set by Amit, but was informative all the same. Our tour was pretty quick, because it was going to be a long trip to Jaipur. The coolest thing about Fatehpur Sikri was that Akbar had built three different palaces for each of his three wives (one Muslim, one Christian and one Hindu). Each of the different palaces is totally different and reflects each wife’s religion. The Hindu wife was Akbar’s favourite, because she bore a son, and her palace is probably 10 times as big as the other two. After finishing up Fatehpur Sikri in record time (our guide was a speedy fellow! I could hardly keep up with him), we took a quick look at the Buland Darwaza, the highest gate in Asia, before heading back to the car.

After a quick lunch stop, we arrived in Jaipur at about 6pm. Our hotel here is comfortable enough, although nothing special compared to last night’s wonderful hotel. We were pleased to find out that there is a rooftop restaurant here with a cultural show of dancing, singing and puppetry. This is where we decided to have dinner. The food itself wasn’t that exciting but the show was really neat. The dancers were dressed so vividly and were very talented. The one dancer danced first with a pot of fire balanced on her head, and then with 5 clay pots on her head. It was amazing. My favourite part though, was the fire breather/eater. I couldn’t believe that he could blow such a huge stream of fire into the air without burning himself! It was amazing! The only thing that ended up being slightly awkard was at the end of the show when the performers all stood in the middle of the stage waiting for people to come and tip them. We hadn’t been planning on tipping, but they stood in front of our table staring at us until we finally pulled out some money. It was weird.

It seems that our hotel is a mecca for newlyweds – there were several honeymooners sitting at the tables around us. The couple sitting at the table behind us had checked in just after us, earlier in the evening, and were so sweet together. They asked me to take a photo of them, which of course I was happy to do. They were so cute – the girl seemed a little bit shy and timid, and they both seemed so happy and in love J

Now we are back in our room and settling down for the evening. It has been a very busy couple of days (and some very early mornings) so we’re hoping to get a get an early night in today so that we’re nice and fresh for tomorrow!

December 19th, 2009

No, don’t worry, I haven’t fallen off the face of the planet! I am safe and sound – the last few days of this week were just crazy busy with preparations for the end of our internship, and trying to get in all of the last minute stuff we wanted to do in Chennai before heading North.

Right now I am in North India, in a car, heading towards Agra! Priyanka and I arrived in Delhi early this morning to meet up with our tour guide for the “touristy” portion of our trip to India – a four day tour of India’s Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra and Jaipur). But more on that later. First I will update you all on our last few days in Chennai.

WEDNESDAY

Wednesday was the first day of our three day NDT and Sensory Integration workshop at SPASTN. When we arrived in the morning Karthik and Ramkumar were running around like crazy people trying to finish off last minute preparations for the workshop. I was expecting it to be a pretty big thing, since Karthik mentioned that he was expecting a lot more people for Journal club this week since Journal club had been written into the workshop itinerary. It turned out not to be quite as big as I was expecting – only a few new faces, plus pretty much everyone from the PT department participated. In that way, it was more like an in-servive than a workshop per say. I think Priyanka and I were both really glad at that point that we had decided to participate in the workshop, because otherwise we probably would have been bored out of our minds in the PT department, since most of the sessions were cancelled for those three days.

The lectures presented in the workshop were a pretty different style than Priyanka and I are used to from school – the power point slides were not available ahead of time, and I had a dickens of a time trying to decipher the lecturers’ accents, take in what they were saying AND take notes at the same time. The topics interesting though, and I did learn a few things. This workshop probably would have been super useful at the beginning of the internship rather than at the end!

At the lunch break, Priyanka and I noticed that everyone was paying Karthik money, which we later discovered was for printing the power point slides. Nobody approached us for money, which struck us as kind of odd. While we were eating lunch, it dawned on us that we were probably the only ones that were actually required to pay the 1000 INR course fee, which then covered our printing costs. We were also the only ones that received a notebook and pen at the beginning of the course. When we’d asked Karthik about the fee on Tuesday he said it was to “cover course costs” – I have a hard time imagining that a few printed notes, a notebook and a pen were worth 1000 INR ($25 CAD). What bothers me is not that we have to pay, but this perception that because we are foreigners we are swimming in money and that 1000 INR is nothing to us. It wouldn’t bother me to pay for the course if EVERYONE was paying a 1000 INR fee, even if that was more than the cost of the workshop and was used as a revenue generating opportunity for SPASTN. It bothers me that WE are being used as the revenue generating opportunity for SPASTN – especially since we already paid 6000 INR to even conduct our internship at SPASTN. We later confirmed with Priya that everyone else was indeed paying less for the workshop – only around 350 INR. But anyways, just a little aside.

Wednesday evening we went back to Mylapore one last time. We got pretty lucky with the weather. Although it had been raining all day, it cleared up just in time for us to leave, and ended up being a beautiful night! In Mylapore we went to visit San Thome’s cathedral (or basilica technically I guess)– one of only three cathedrals in the world built over the grave of an apostle. (San Thome’s is built over St. Thomas’s grave). San Thome’s is a really beautiful structure. By the time we got there it was dark, but it was beautifully illuminated by floodlights that made its white washed walls glow in the dark. It is huge, and has gorgeous stained glass windows everywhere. We went inside to look, but there was a mass going on (in Tamil) so we didn’t stay for very long. We wandered around the grounds a little bit and found a museum and the entrance to St. Thomas’s tomb chapel at the back of the building. The museum wasn’t anything too special, just a lot of old church artifacts that weren’t very well explained. The grave chapel was really neat, although slightly creepy. It seems to be in the basement of the basilica, and is a quiet, simple chapel where you can literally pray in front of the tomb/casket (I don’t know if its real) of St. Thomas.

After we finished up at the church we hopped in an auto and headed back towards the local train station, where the famous temple that we visited earlier on in our journey, and all of the stalls selling bangles are located. By chance, we were dropped off in front of a silk store, and Priyanka managed to find another sari for another family member. We spent quite a bit of time picking out some more bangles (I got some nice purple ones to match my sari), and then we were both starving, so we hit up the local Saravan Bhavan for dinner. Saravan Bhavan is a chain of vegetarian Indian restaurants that I think serve mostly south Indian food – pretty tasty stuff. We got a masala doas, a mixed vegetable parotha dish (which was amazing – it was sliced parothas stir fried with veggies!) and something called a 7-taste Uttapam (which was basically mini Uttapams with different toppings. My personal favourite was the one smeared with the Indian magical ingredient – Ketchup). It was a really tasty and satisfying meal, and a bargain at less than 200 INR ($5 CAD) for both of us together, including drinks!

By the time we finished eating it was pretty late, so we got an auto back to SPASTN. We managed to haggle one down to 110 INR, which seemed like an okay deal to us given the distance. And we managed to get him to take us all the way to our door, thereby avoiding the snake walk once again!

THURSDAY

Thursday was an early morning, because we were expecting the woman who does our laundry between 7 and 7:30am. Normally she comes on Wednesday or Thursday evenings, but because she was busy on Wednesday and we wanted to make sure that our clothing was dry by Friday when we had to pack, we asked her to come in the morning instead.

The workshop was really good on Thursday morning. We had some of the lecture slides in advance, which made listening and learning much easier for me. We also had a really great lab session led by Ramkumar and Priya on facilitation, which was not only fun, but a great learning experience.

We ended up missing most of the afternoon sessions to finish up our final evaluations (which went really well!), and then meet with SPASTN’s director (who was acting as our CCCE) to go over and sign the evals. Meeting with the director was an interesting experience. We’d really only met her once at the beginning of the internship, and she was pretty non-involved throughout our time at SPASTN. We mentioned some of the difficulties we’d had in terms of miscommunication of the requirements of our internship, and I think she really took it as us blaming SPASTN for the miscommunication (which was not at all what we had meant – obviously there was miscommunication on everyone’s part). I think it might be a culture thing – I think in India “negative” (albeit constructive) feedback is seen as a failure of sorts. It was also interesting to watch Karthik and Ramkumar’s interaction with the director. It was almost like they were scared of her – you could definitely see the hierarchy.

We got back to the workshop just in time for a lecture on Sensory Integration theory by Karthik (which was great because he is a phenomenal teacher) and then a practical session in the sensory integration room. In Canada and the US I think that SI is more of an occupational therapy thing, which is really too bad, because its incredibly interesting. Definitely something I’d like to learn more about.

I feel like this week has been a bit of a breaking ground in terms of us being accepted by the rest of the PT department. I think they’ve finally gotten used to us being around, and used to the fact that we are different than other interns they’ve had. They have been talking to us a lot more, and generally have just been a lot friendlier. In particular Prem, who I always thought was kind of an odd duck, started to get way more friendly and talkative after we visited Karthik’s private clinic, where Prem also works. Turns out he’s a really nice guy. Anyways, its too bad that this didn’t happen earlier, because it feels really nice to be accepted! Better late than never I guess!

Thursday evening I had a lot of preparation to do for Friday’s journal club, and we also had to go pick up my blouse piece from the tailor. My blouse piece wasn’t going to be ready for pickup until 7:30pm, so to facilitate us getting out of there before dark (and having to do the snake walk out alone) we left around 5:45, and went to read the journal article at Ascendas with a coffee from French Loaf (Café Coffee Days was closed, but it turns out that French Loaf has great coffee too – I had a hazelnut latte).

We headed out to Thiravanmiyur around 8pm (via auto) to pick up my blouse. I’m really glad that Priyanka convinced me to try it on at the tailor’s because she made it SUPER tight, even though I’d asked for it to be fitted loosely. I made her take out some stitches, and it fits much better now. Priyanka says its just the style in Tamil Nadu to wear your blouse piece skin tight, but it was kind of demoralizing all the same.

After picking up my blouse we headed back to the compound (managed to secure an auto for only 20 INR! Best deal we’ve gotten yet!) and had a late dinner at our building. It ended up being a bit of a late night for me, because I still had a lot of journal club preparations to do, but a wonderful day all the same.

FRIDAY

Friday was the craziest, surreal day ever. After five weeks of placement it was really hard to believe that it was all over – our last day had arrived. In some ways it felt like we’d been in India forever, but it other ways it felt like our time just flew by.

In any case, we got together the gifts we’d brought for the PT department, Ramkumar and Karthik and headed over to the school. We were running a little bit late, and arrived at the PT department at about 9:30 We came into the department expecting to dole out our gifts, but Karthik just looked at us and said the sessions had already started, so we’d better get going. Not exactly the reception we’d been hoping for. But we stored our things in a cupboard in the department and went to where the session was supposed to be held. Far from having started, there were only about three people in the room staring at a blue screen because nobody could figure out how to hook up the projector. We were a little irritated to say the least.

The morning’s sessions went by pretty quickly – it was mostly SI lectures, and a really cool video on SI. At lunchtime we finally got a chance to present our gifts. We gave Ramkumar some maple syrup from St. Agatha, Karthik some toys and books for the new clinic he just started up, and the PT department a bunch of toys to be used in therapy and snacks for the staff to share. I think neither Karthik nor Ramkumar really knew what to say about the gifts, so it was kind of awkward. It kind of bothered me at the time that they didn’t seem more thankful, because we’d spent a lot of time selecting things and hauled them all the way from Canada, but I got over it pretty quickly.

In the afternoon we had a lecture on research methodology. It was interesting to see the differences in research between India and the Western world – we definitely describe things differently in terms of statistics etc. We are definitely more advanced than they are in terms of our knowledge base in research methodology (I think Priyanka and I knew almost as much as the lecturer), but it was a really good lecture all the same.

The journal club was a pretty good follow up to the research methodology lecture. I was really nervous to lead it, and forgot about half of the things that I wanted to say because I got all flustered. I kind of had the feeling that it was a bit of a train wreck, but Priyanka said it went fine. Before we knew it, journal club (and our placement!) were over! We said our goodbyes to Ramkumar and Karthik and the rest of the PT department and headed back to our humble “home” in the compound (although not before snapping some photos of different areas in the school!)

To celebrate being done our internship we decided to have dinner at McDonalds. Now, this doesn’t sound like much of a celebration, but it was kind of exciting for me, because in India McDonald’s has a veggie burger! (In Canada they definitely don’t). The veggie burger and fries were highly tasty and disgustingly satisfying. I washed that all down with a golden alphonso milkshake – all in all a coronary waiting to happen!

We headed back to the compound to work on packing. I had just gotten started rearranging my bags when Priyanka remembered that we’d forgotten to reload our internet stick, which was about to expire the next day. So, after spending half an hour on the phone only to discover than no, you can not reload your stick online as we were initially told, we decided to make a run to Reliance World in Besant Nagar to reload the stick. We managed to negotiate a reasonable deal with an auto driver who was willing to wait while we reloaded the stick. Unfortunately the store had just closed down its cash registers (although their doors were still open), but they gave us our word (and a receipt of payment) that if we gave them the cash, they would reload our stick first thing in the morning. Normally we wouldn’t have trusted them, but we were pretty desperate at that point, so we did it.

We got back to our place shortly before 9pm and began packing in earnest. I couldn’t believe how much stuff I had accrued over the five weeks! My suitcase was definitely overweight, but I didn’t really have any other options but to take it that way, since an overweight baggage charge is much less than an extra baggage charge.

Priya came by at about 10pm to say goodbye to us – it was a really sad moment. As excited as I am to explore other parts of India, and then to go home, Priya has become a good friend, and its sad to leave her behind. Who knows if we’ll ever see her again?

I’ve been touched by so many people throughout the course of this placement – not only Priya, but all of the PT department, the security guards, my patients, friends of Priyanka….too many people to mention. It was such a good experience, and despite the speed bumps in the road, I don’t regret any part of it. I’m so glad that I did this, and so proud of myself too. I definitely learned a lot, and its enriched my life in so many different ways.

SATURDAY

Our 3:00 am wake up time came much too quickly after our late night of packing on Friday. We rolled out of bed, got dressed and pulled down our mosquito nets. I have to say, I am NOT going to miss sleeping under a mosquito net and waking up to swat rogue mosquitos at 4am! Or getting bitten in inopportune places while using the bathroom. Hate is a strong word. But I hate mosquitos.

Anyways, our call taxi showed up at 4am, as we requested, which was already a good start to the day. Unfortunately they sent us a really small car, and there wasn’t enough room for everything in the trunk. As a result, my giant overweight suitcase was balanced precariously on the roof of this car without any straps, for the ride to the airport. The whole way there, I kept preparing myself to hear a crash and see my suitcase tumbling into the road. Surprisingly the taxi driver drove fairly carefully and my suitcase was still in one piece, and still on the roof when we arrived at the airport.

We checked in at the Jet Lite counter, only to be notified that we had to go have our bags security scanned before we could check them. Thankfully this didn’t’ take too long. I didn’t even end up getting charged for my overweight baggage! Our theory is that because Priyanka’s bag was less than the maximum weight they just averaged our two bags together, which was nice of them.

Security took a while to get through, but was no big deal. Priyanka even managed to smuggle an entire Klean Kanteen full of water through the checkpoint. We arrived at our gate, and didn’t even have a long wait before boarding was announced. Priyanka made a quick coffee stop for the two of us while I waited in line. Just as we were about to board the plan the security guard informed me that I was missing a security tag on my backpack and that I needed to get it rechecked. Ugh! What a pain! It didn’t take as long as it sounded like it was going to though, and soon we were boarding the plane!

The flight was about 2.5 hours, and went by pretty quickly. We were both tired from the early wakeup, so we dozed a bit. Flying into Delhi was pretty cool – the city looks so different from Chennai, even from the air! We deplaned onto the tarmack and then took a bus into the terminal. The airport seems to be pretty new and modern, probably because Delhi is a pretty big tourist destination. Our bags took quite some time to come out, but we were out of the airport by about 10am.

After we got our luggage, we set about meeting Gautam, our tour organizer outside. He and our driver were waiting for us with a P. Banerjee sign and big smiles. Gautam and Lal (the driver) were both very nice, and helped us with our big pile of bags. I was really excited for the tour – it was going to be a private tour of the highlights of the Golden Triangle, including the Taj Mahal! A private tour sounded a bit sketchy to me at first, but Priyanka’s parents went with the same tour company a few years ago and had a really good experience. And the price was definitely right at 228 USD each for three nights hotel accommodations, our private driver and car, and tour guides in the three cities that we are visiting. Gautam was just meeting us to say hello and collect the balance of our payment, and then he left us in the capable hands of Lal, to drive to Agra.

The drive to Agra was fairly long – about four and a half hours (plus an hour lunch break), although it is only about 250 km from Delhi (unless I’m mistaken). I think it takes that long to get places in India because the road quality in some areas is poor (although we did drive on some highways that were comparable to Canada) and there is a lot of traffic.

Our first stop in Agra was Sikandra, the mausoleum of the Mughal emperor Akbarer the Great. Here we met up with our tour guide for Agra, Amit. Amit is a quirky, yet polite and well-spoken guy – a fantastic tour guide for us. We didn’t spend very long at the Sikandra, because we wanted to visit Agra’s famous fort before sunset (all of the monuments in Agra close at sunset), so we just snapped a few photos of the ornate gateway, and then hopped back into the car to head to the Agra Fort.

The Agra Fort is a huge red sandstone structure built by Akbar and his descendants. These days a portion of it (like the “palace” areas and the courtyards are a tourist attraction and the rest of it is occupied by the Indian Army. When we walked up to the entrance of the fort, there were monkeys climbing all over it! It was awesome! Priyanka and I joke that all of her photos of India are going to be of flowers (she loves flowers) whereas all of my photos of India are going to be animals (mostly cows and goats, but now some monkeys as well!). We also got our first glmpse of the Taj Mahal from the fort entrance, just a speck on the horizon.

The Fort was very beautiful inside. The palaces areas are all very intricately carved and beautifully laid out. You can just imagine what it looked like in days gone by – fancy silks and chandeliers hanging everywhere. There are a few rooms that used to house swings (one gold and one silver) where the emperor could sit with his wife and enjoy the view of the river. One of the palace areas that was built a little bit later on, is constructed entirely of white marble. The thing that I found fascinating about this part of the fort is that the walls are hollow, and in the summer filled with cold water (to keep the palace cool) and in the winter with hot water (to provide heat). One of my other favourite areas of the fort is a courtyard area, which used to overlook a fish pond. The emperor used to sit there and fish, while watching some of his 500 concubines dance for him. Apparently there was also a market along the side of the fish pond where royal women could come to do their shopping.

After we finished at the fort, we got back into the car to head to the hotel. We were offered the opportunity to go see a show (opera type thing) about Akbar and his wives, but decided that it might be too touristy and tacky. The hotel was amazing – we paid a little bit extra to upgrade this hotel to a 4 star, and it was totally worth it. Our room was really nice, with soft beds (and two pillows each!) and a completely westernized bathroom, including a bathtub!

It was still pretty early and we weren’t ready to have dinner yet, so we decided to have Lal drive us to a nearby mall. I wanted to buy a jacket, since I had neglected to bring any warm clothing for this part of the trip. Foolishly I’d thought, hey its India…its warm everywhere! But in the North it is about 20 degrees during the day and somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees in the evening/night at this time of year, so it was getting chilly. I didn’t actually find a jacket that I liked (nothing in India fits me – it seems to all be cut for very slender women), but I did find a colourful shawl that I liked. I figure I can at least wrap that around my neck, and layer my clothing underneath the one sweater that I did bring along.

On the way back to the hotel we decided to stop in at another handicrafts store that was just beside the hotel (its funny because we weren’t even intending on going shopping in Agra, but since everything closes at sunset we didn’t have much else to do), where we ended up haggling a pretty good deal on some gift items for friends and family. I was pretty proud of my haggling – I got him down a few hundred INR. I wanted to pay 1000 INR for my purchases, but he wouldn’t go that low.I couldn’t let him win by settling for t 1050, so I drove a hard bargain and got my things for 1025 INR.

After shopping we explored a little bit further down the street and ended up at an Indian Chinese restaurant for dinner (the hotel restaurant was really expensive – would have been over 600 INR each for the buffet). Priyanka said that Indian Chinese was really good, and we thought it would be something different and fun! We ended up having a tandoori paneer appetizer (not very Chinese, but very good), chilly paneer and spicy garlic noodles for dinner. It was SO delicious! The chilly paneer was hands down my favourite. The thing that I love about India is that veggie options abound – normally, I find it hard to get veggie options at a Chinese restaurant! The price was pretty solid too – we ended up paying less than 300 INR for both of us together (fresh lime soda included!). I’m not sure if I’ve explained my fascination with fresh lime soda yet – its really tasty stuff. Basically, you get a glass with a little bit of freshly squeezed lime juice in it. To that you add soda water, and then a sugar syrup which you usually get on the side. Mmmm.

After dinner we rolled ourselves back to the hotel (it was so much food!) and began to settle in for the night. Our internet wasn’t working and we’re not sure if its because they didn’t add our money or because of another reason. In any case it was frustrating, and meant that we had to spend a lot more money to talk to our families that night (we still have our phone, but its roaming now).

We were also a little disappointed to find out that there was a party going on at the poolside (which we were directly facing), with really loud music. At about 11:30 we started calling the reception to get them to ask the party to turn the music down. It would work for a few minutes – they would turn it down when the person was there – and then as soon as the reception guy left, they would crank it up again. This went on until shortly after midnight, when I stuffed my earplugs in (thank goodness for earplugs) and went to sleep anyways. I wanted to get a good night’s sleep to be fresh to visit the Taj Mahal in the morning!

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

December 15th, 2009

Today was awesome! In fact, probably the best day of placement (not including traveling weekends) that we’ve had since arriving at SPASTN. Today we spent the day touring some of the extensions of SPASTN – namely the community based rehab (CBR) and the new born screening program.

We left the compound at about 8:15 via call taxi (which was an adventure in and of itself – it took us forever to figure out how to tell the guy how to find SPASTN) and headed out to Red Hills, a villiage North of Chennai proper. It took us about an hour to get there due to the huge amount of traffic, the sketchy roads and the fact that our taxi driver didn’t really know where he was going. Red Hills is an interesting place – we haven’t spent much time in the residential areas of India, so it was neat to see how the people live. The streets were very narrow (I had my doubts that our taxi would fit down them) and there were cows, goats and chickens roaming everywhere.

The taxi dropped us off at the Red Hills Primary Health Care Center, a government run hospital mostly for people living below the poverty line. We wandered around aimlessly for a few minute outside, before being approached by a woman. The woman, as it turned out, was Joy Crystal, one of the volunteers in the CBR center that is located at the PHC. She took us around the side of the hospital to the CBR area. The CBR building is a small round hut type building, with a tin roof (I only noticed this because it was raining and it made an interesting noise). There didn’t seem to be any lighting inside, but there must have been electricity, since there were fans hanging from the ceiling. The building was pretty basic – a few mats for physio sessions in the center of the room, some toys, some adaptive equipment. The had a small sensory integration area built into the back of the room, and a bit of “office space” for the PTs (mostly just a table and chairs). We waited here for Babu, the PT that was supposed to show us around for the day.



After a few minutes of waiting we were told to take the SPASTN Jeep to another school, where Babu was waiting for us. So away we went! The Jeep driver was super nice, and we had a nice chat en route, despite his broken English. It was a short trip to the school where Babu was waiting. Babu, turned out to be a slight, friendly man, who actually went to school with Priya, our PT friend at the SPASTN compound.



The school was actually a normal school where the government had set up a ‘day care center”, so that kids with disabilities could be integrated (in a way) into the normal school system. Basically, there is a PT there two to three times per week, that instructs volunteers (often Mothers of children in the school) on how to carry out exercises/splinting etc for the students. This way the students can attend the normal school and still receive all of the therapies that they need to thrive.

We spent a few minutes here, chatting with Babu and the other PT that was there, and then went back into the jeep with Babu to head back to the CBR. On the way, we stopped at the Chennai water reservoir, a giant lake where all of Chennai’s drinking water is stored for treatment. This year has apparently been a very dry year (although you wouldn’t know it by the way it was raining today), so their water supplies are a bit low. Right now there are no restrictions on how much water can be used, but when they start to run out, restrictions on who can use water when will be imposed.



Back at the CBR, Babu explained a little bit about this part of SPASTN and how everything is organized. CBR was basically born out of a need for parents of kids with disabilities living in more rural areas. Before CBR these parents were bringing their kids all the way to the compound that we are usually at – a very long bus ride – just for their therapy. As I understood it, the CBR basically has three umbrellas – the CBR itself, the government run program (which does the day care centers in the schools) and another branch which focuses mostly on vocational training and income generation. The thing that I found the most fascinating and inspiring about CBR is that they really go a long way to empower their patients/parents. They provide all kinds of information regarding the different funding that is available in India for people with disabilities, and they have started up a number of ‘self help vocational groups’ that can then generate income for the people taking part in them. It seems like a really admirable organization!

After our talk on the organization of CBR, we had some newborns come in for screening. Normally the newborn screening takes place in the hospital itself, but visitors aren’t allowed in there (at least not non-family), so they had to bring the babies into the CBR building. The first baby we saw was not even 12 hours old! I’ve never seen such a tiny baby before! Babu showed us the full developmental screen they go through for each infant, including head measurements and checking of vision, hearing and reflexes. It was really cool, because we were able to see things that we normally only hear about in class. We did have one lab in school on young babies, but none that young! We had two more babies come in – each a little bit older than the first one. Babu was actually going to let us do the last screening, but then the baby had a funny skin infection, so we elected to let him do it instead. Babu is a really great teacher – I feel like I learned more in one morning than I did the whole previous 4.5 weeks!

After the new-born screening we met up with the program manager of the CBR (can’t remember her name, but she was extremely nice), and the four of us went for lunch at hotel nearby. Although we weren’t expecting it, they ended up treating us to lunch, which was really nice! (And tasty too!)

Our last stop of the day was a different CBR (in a different district basically), which has been set up in a Buddist monestery run school. It was a really neat place – the therapy room itself was much like the others we’d seen that day (pretty basic), but the grounds of the school were incredibly beautiful, lush and green. The play ground there was really cool too – it was designed by a past PT for use with therapy, and its incredibly creative. They use tires to encourage balance and alternate stepping, they have a set of parallel bars, some ramps, and even standers built into the ground. Basically every item in the play ground can be used as a therapy tool! They have a similar playground at the other CBR that we visited, but this one was definitely nicer.

We also got to visit the inside of the monastery and meet the head Monk. The monastery was very beautiful, with a white marble meditation room inside. Generally a very calming place, as I’m sure it is meant to be. The Monk was incredibly nice – he asked us a lot of questions about Canada and how we’re enjoying our trip. He is originally from Burma, but moved to Chennai in the early 90’s. He was really intrigued by Priyanka because she looks so Indian (well…she is Indian) but identifies as Canadian J He talked with us a little bit about Buddhism, and invited us to sit with him in the meditation room and showed us some photos of events that have happened at the monastery.

Before long, our taxi showed up again to take us back to our hostel. We were sad to leave because it had been such a fun, inspiring and enlightening day, and we’d learned so much! It took us about an hour and a half to get home (traffic was pretty heavy, and in the mean time it started raining again).

We were originally hoping to get out to Mylapore today, but it was raining so hard by the time we got home that we decided just to stay in for the evening. We’re definitely going on Thursday, rain or shine. I’m all caught up on emails for the day, so I think I’ll spend the rest of the evening working on my final evals, and my journal article for this week’s journal club, which I’m leading (and which has now become part of the workshop itinerary! Scary!)

Hope everyone out there is doing well, staying warm, and getting into the Christmas spirit!

Monday, December 14, 2009

December 14th, 2009

Its Monday again! This morning I didn’t wake up with as much of the “Mondays” as I have the past few weeks, probably because we stayed in Chennai this weekend, and also because this is officially our last Monday of placement!

Although today wasn’t actually intended to be our last day of patient care, it turns out that it was! Tomorrow we are spending the day away from SPASTN, first visiting their community based rehab (CBR) center, and then new-born screening. We’ll hopefully also finish off the day with a home visit!

We also decided that we are going to take part in the workshop on NDT and sensory integration that is running this week (even though it will cost us 1000 INR each), because we feel like it will help to fill in some of the things that we should have learned throughout this internship, and didn’t. It may not be a recognized course for us at home, but I think it will be useful and interesting all the same. BUT, that will take up Wednesday through Friday…so no more patient care for us!

My patient was kind of a hell-beast today, unfortunately. I guess he’s gotten to know me to the point where he feels like he can misbehave (should I be flattered?). It started off sweet and innocent…he didn’t really want to do the exercises that I wanted him to do, and was trying to distract me by blowing kisses and stuff. But then when he figured out that I wasn’t going to let him off that easily he started pinching me (and even Priyanka who was holding the cones that he was supposed to be reaching for), and tugging on my ears. He even inadvertently elbowed me in the nose! Anyways, so it wasn’t the best treatment session I’ve had with him, and a crappy way to end off my patient care experience, but meh. At least this time, it wasn’t crappy due to my own incompetence.

After work we decided to run some errands in Thiravanmyiur. We’d wanted to make another trip to Mylapore, but it was raining on and off, so we decided to save that for tomorrow. The first stop was the post office, where we (finally!) sent some post cards. Then we headed to Cotton House (which has everything under the sun) so that I could buy a second carry-on luggage. I came to India with one carry-on and two suit cases (one mostly filled with food) and I’m trying to condense my stuff into one bag (the one suitcase I brought is a duffle and should fit inside the other bag now that the food and toys we brought are gone). Jet Lite, the airline we’re flying to Delhi with on Saturday, has a one checked bag per person rule, unfortunately. I think condensing to one bag won’t be a problem, but I’m a little afraid that its going to be overweight. We’ll see I guess. Anyways, I’m going to put some clothing for Delhi in my new carryon, plus some breakable items that I don’t trust to go into my checked luggage.

After Cotton House we went to the tailor (a new, more upscale one that we found next to Cotton House) to get the blouse piece that goes along with my sari tailored (a lot of sari’s come with a piece of fabric that you take to the tailor to get made into the blouse that goes underneath the actual sari). It took a little convincing, but my custom tailored blouse piece should be ready by Thursday evening, for only 170 INR (less than 5 bucks – about 1/10th of what I would have paid in Canada!).

We also did a little bit more Sari shopping, and Priyanka found a few nice pieces for some of her friends at home. We arrived home around 7pm, and had a leisurely dinner of dahl, chappati and yogurt. The rest of the evening I’ve just been catching up on blogging, talking to family etc. I feel like I’m forgetting to do something…hmm. Anyways, this last week will be a busy one, so we have to make every moment count!

Well, I think that’s all for tonight! More Tomorrow!

December 13th, 2009

Well, we’ve officially been in India for one month today! We arrived just after midnight on November 13th. Crazy eh? In one way it feels as thought I’ve been here forever, and in another way it feels like the time has just flown by. As much fun as I’m having, there really is no place like home though, and I am starting to look forward to coming home J

Today we went shopping in T. Nagar – one of the main shopping districts in Chennai. We started off around 9am, because we were told that it is best to get there early on in the day to avoid crowds. I was bracing myself for the worst (Anna told me to bring a paper bag in case of hyperventilation) but when we got there it really wasn’t so bad. The streets were quite wide, and there were a lot of stores, but at 10 am, not that many people were out and about. The objectives of the day were mostly wedding shopping for Priyanka – she wanted to look for her wedding Sari (yes, THE wedding sari!) as well as some sari’s for her friends and family. I was also hoping to buy something to wear to Priyanka’s wedding, as well as some souvenirs for people at home.

We started of at KM&R Wedding Silks, but didn’t find anything too special there, so we headed to Nelli – a famous silk/sari store. Sari shopping is a really interesting experience. The big stores are separated by type of Sari (and often more specifically by type of silk). In front of each shelving unit full of saris is a huge, cloth covered table. You tell the man standing behind the table what colour/kind of sari you want, and he starts pulling things out for you to look at. If it strikes your fancy, you can get him to open it up on the table so you can see the Atchel (which is usually the most ornate part).

Nelli is a huge, over air conditioned store – it literally had floors and floors of saris, as well as a floor of fancier Salwars, kids-wear and mens wear. We started looking on the main floor at fancy, embroidered saris for Priyanka. Although she found a few nice ones, there wasn’t one with the “wow” factor. We decided to try looking at a different type of silk on the next floor. When we got upstairs the man behind the table said “oh, we have genuine wedding sari’s here” and pulled out this absolutely gorgeous one. Priyanka’s eyes immediately lit up – I could tell she was excited. I’m going to skip ahead a little bit here – it’s the one she ended up getting after a little bit of comparison at other shops – but I’m not going to describe it because I don’t want to let the cat out of the bag. Lets just say its very beautiful and ornate.

At this point it was nearing 1pm, and we were getting hungry, so we called up Anna, who was supposed to meet us for lunch. We caught an auto and headed to Sanjeevanam (the restaurant we’d previously been to with Priya, only a different location) our meeting spot. We’d goaded Anna into joining us for the full ayeurvedic lunch, which Priya assured us we would enjoy.

The lunch started off with some raw-ish banana with coconut flakes, and five juices. The juices had to be drunk in a specific order – right to left, and consisted of date juice (which was pleasantly sweet), sweetened buttermilk (mmmm), beet root juice (very bitter, but tolerable), a minty-yogurt concoction (ick) and last of all, red rice water (super ick). We couldn’t stop laughing at each others faces when we tried some of the more “exotic” juices. Anna, as it turns out, is a really picky eater, and she only came to Sanjeevanum for us – we were both touched and amused.

After the juices came the raw and semi cooked foods, which were all served on a giant banana leaf. There was a pile of this grain (that I couldn’t identify, but was really tasty), a salad with carrots and cucumbers, something they call “banana stem” which was soaked in yogurt and pickled lime peel. Everything was pretty tasty except for the pickled lime peel, which was quite sour. I think I was the most adventurous of our trio – I really wanted to try and finish everything in the proper order, to maximize the effect. The semi-cooked foods consisted of winter-melon, some unidentifiable white stuff (which was actually quite good), pumpkin and pineapple, and banana flower. The banana flower kind of reminded me of Yves veggie ground round…it was interesting. Not my favourite, but not bad either. After the semi-cooked foods came the cooked foods. The cooked foods consisted of bitter-melon (which was gross – despite my best intentions of finishing everything, I drew the line at this), spinach, mixed veggie curry and tomato chutney. We also got white rice with some assorted dahls to put on top, and there was some red rice (which tasted suspiciously like the red rice water) and a very thin dahl. I think the red rice was technically semi-cooked. In any case, I ate it before the cooked stuff.

Once we’d finished all of that (well, really once I finished all of that – the other two left a lot of stuff on their banana leaf that they didn’t like), we were served a sweet rice pudding for dessert. This made Anna happy because she’s into sweets. In fact, I think during the juice course she said “if this meal doesn’t end with dessert, I might kill someone!”. We also got paan, which is this Indian sweet that you are supposed to chew on for a long time. This was my first time eating paan – I stuck it in my mouth and started to chew. It tasted pretty good, and I didn’t feel the need to chew it for too long, so I swallowed it. Anna was in conversation with Priyanka, but when she looked over at me and saw that I had swallowed mine already she laughed and said “man, that was the fastest paan eating I’ve ever seen”. I guess I didn’t savour it like I was supposed to J The whole meal was followed up by a spoonful of honey to aid digestion. Yum!

All in all it was a pretty fun experience! I’m really glad we went! I don’t think I’ve ever giggled that much at any meal – I’m sure the waiters thought we were ridiculous. I’m sad that we don’t have any photos from the meal – neither of us brought our cameras because we were afraid of losing them in the T. Nagar hustle and bustle.

After we’d taken some time to digest, we all headed back to T. Nagar (including Anna who had some of her own errands to run). Priyanka did end up buying her sari, as well as another one for one of her future sister-in-laws. All of this took surprisingly longer than we thought, and it was soon time to say goodbye to Anna (her Sunday curfew is 6pm!). We were sad to say goodbye, but happy that we were able to see her again before heading back to Canada. I really hope that if she comes to the US or Canada eventually she comes to visit us!

Once Anna left we decided we were all Sari’d out, and started to look for something for me to wear for Priyanka’s wedding. I’d thought that I wanted a fancy salwar, but after looking at a few places, didn’t really find anything I wanted that was in my price range.

At this point T. Nagar was filling up fast. The roads were just overflowing with people. It was slightly overwhelming, but at the same time, it made the roads easier to cross because you could always count on crossing with a crowd, rather than having to wait for a break in the cars.

Eventually I decided that I wanted to get a Sari as well, instead of a salwar. So back to Nelli we went. It took me a long time (and by this time it was nearing closing time, so the employees were getting tired and somewhat impatient), but eventually I found a gorgeous silk blend, royal purple sari, accented with rhinestones and beadwork, and at totally fair price of only 900 INR. Pretty sweet deal! I’m really excited for it! Not only will it be great for Priyanka’s wedding, but it’s a nice souvenir of our time here in India.

After I got my sari we picked up a few more things for Priyanka’s family members, and then decided it was time to call it quits. We’d literally been out and about for almost 12 hours.

We arrived home around 9:30 pm, and after a quick dinner and chatting with family are winding things down for the evening. What a long and crazy (but fun!) day! I’ve officially survived shopping in T. Nagar!

Saturday, December 12, 2009

December 12th, 2009

Today was a busy but really fun day! During the week we bought tickets for this Hop-on-Hop-off bus service that goes from Chennai to Mamallapuram. Mamallapuram is a city just south of Chennai that is famous for its stone carvers. It is also home to the second most photographed monument in India – the shore temple (three guess what the MOST photographed is?). Anyways, we were excited at the prospect of seeing all of the stone carved monuments, and even more excited when we discovered that the bus also stopped at Daksina Chitra, an open-air museum/cultural center that shows the craft and architectural traditions of India (most specifically south India). We’d heard about Daksina Chitra, but didn’t think we’d have a chance to go.

We got on the bus in Chennai at 10am, and arrived at Daksina Chitra shortly after 11. What a neat place! It kind of reminded me of a cross between Bush Gardens and a Pioneer Villiage. They had the property divided into different states of India, and on each “state” they had houses and crafts people typical of the area. It was really neat to get an idea of what houses look like in other parts of India, since we won’t actually have a chance to visit those other states. In the Kerala section there was a woman doing Henna “tattoos” so Priyanka and I each got our hands done. It was pretty funny – we both got our entire left hands and parts of our forearms done, so then afterwards, while we were waiting for it to dry, we couldn’t use those hands at all – talk about awkward! Even reaching into my bag to get out 50 INR to pay the lady was tough without full use of both of my hands! The woman did a really wonderful job – mine is really ornate: on my palms are two peacocks and then my fingers and forearm have all kinds of swirls on them. It was really hard to wait for it to dry to peel off the henna!




I think my favourite artisan of the day was the glass blower. He wasn’t really a blower per say, so much as he worked with sticks of glass to shape animals, bells, and deities out of glass with a blow torch type thing. He even made me a little mouse on top of a stir stick (for tea or coffee) at my special request. He was super talented and it was really cool to watch him work!

We also got to watch a weaver work on a silk sari for a while, which was a treat. Apparently this man has been working as a weaver since he was old enough to reach the loom. He wove his first sari when he was only 13 years old! Priyanka also had a chance to try her hand at some pottery on a pottery wheel – I can definitely attest to the fact that it is much harder than it looks!

We ended up spending quite a bit more time at Daksina Chitra, and after a quick lunch (an onion uttapam for me, and a masala dosa for Priyanka) and a quick browse in the craft market (where we each bought some thread bangles) we were surprised to see that it was already 3pm! We still had so much to see before the last bus left Mamallapuram at 6pm!

We “Hopped” back on the bus, and took the bus the rest of the way to Mamallapuram. Our first destination in Mamallapuram was the famous shore temple. It is situated at the sea shore (obviously) in a big green park. It was pretty expensive to go in (250 INR for foreigners – Priyanka managed to squeek in on the “Indian rate” of only 10 INR though), but it was totally worth it. The temple is this massive, intricately carved stone structure – I can’t even imagine how it was all carved! You can tell that it has been worn down by sand, wind and water, but it only adds to the effect. It’s easy to imagine what it was like in its glory days. I can definitely see why it’s a popular photo spot.



Our next stop was Arjuna’s Penance – a massive, carved wall that is said to have been carved by the hero Arjuna to obtain a boon from Lord Shiva. Also, totally amazing – I don’t know how something like that could possibly have been carved by hand! Pictures don’t even really do it justice. Around the corner from Arjuna’s Penance is Krishna’s Butter Ball – a funny name for a funny structure. The Butter Ball is basically this giant rock that is perched precariously on top of another slab of rock, in a way that you wouldn’t think gravitationally possible. It looks like it’s going to fall down any minute!



The park where Arjuna’s Penance and the Butter Ball are is not closed off (you don’t need a ticket to see them), so the downside of that is that there are a million people trying to sell you something every time you turn around. “Madam, look at my carvings!”, “Madam, a guide?”, “Which country are you from Madam?”. It gets irritating after a while, but my motto throughout this whole trip has been “just say no”.

After we finished at Arjuna’s Penance and the Butter Ball I let myself peel off the rest of my Henna. It was oddly satisfying – like picking at a scab. When I peeled it off my palm was a bright orange, fading to almost yellow on my forearm, kind of like a sunrise. Pretty nice J

At this point we got back on the bus and headed to our last stop of the day, the Five Rathaas. The Five Rathaas are temples and large stone animals carved from monolithic rocks. I thought that they were very similar in style to the shore temple, only much smaller. Very cool, all the same. My favourite one was the giant elephant!




By the time we finished at the Five Rathaas it was almost 6pm – time to catch the last bus back to Chennai. There were a few more things that we would have liked to see (and ran out of time) but we had an awesome day all the same! I guess it will leave something for me to see on my next trip to India! ;)

On our way home it started “heavy pouring”, as the Indians say, and didn’t stop until we got home. We managed to get the bus driver to let us out in Thiravanmiyur, and caught an auto back to SPASTN. We were both starving and tired when we got home, and were kind of disappointed to see that we didn’t get any dinner delivered! Luckily for us we had PC instant soups to eat! Tomorrow we have a busy day of shopping planned, as well as a big ayeurvedic lunch with Anna, so I’ll probably wind things down for the evening soon (not to mention I’m looking forward to getting under my mosquito net – I’m getting eaten alive!). I’m pleased to report that my Henna has changed colour to a deep, rusty brown – very nice! It fades to a paler brown on my forearm. The lady said that it would last about two weeks – that would be great because it will give me some warm memories of India to tide me over on my first cold Canadian days!

Goodnight!

Friday, December 11, 2009

December 11th, 2009

Double update today! My day yesterday was pretty quiet and kind of boring, so I thought I’d combine it with today’s blog rather than giving it its own update.

Placement yesterday was pretty slow. My patient for the day never actually showed up, so I spent most of the day observing, and helped out with Priyanka’s treatment session. After work we came back to our room to wait for our laundry lady – last week we had her wash our clothes while we were out, and a bunch of them came back with a funky smell, so this week we wanted to be around while she was washing them, just in case. She did a fantastic job, and we now each have enough fresh smelling laundry to keep us going for the week! After dinner we made a quick trip out to Besant Nagar (possibly for the last time!) to do a bit of souvenir shopping, and then headed back home for an early night.

Probably the most exciting (and traumatic) event of the day happened as I was getting ready for bed. I had just flushed the toilet when I looked over and saw something strange in it. Upon closer inspection I realized that it was a large gecko, struggling against the flow of water, so not to be flushed into the Chennai sewer. I immediately panicked – I’d tried (albeit unknowingly) to flush a gecko down the toilet! Ack! What kind of person does that? A terrible one, that’s what! I was contemplating sticking my hand in there to pull him out, when the toilet stopped flushing. I thought for sure that he’d drowned (and I was really sad) but I took a look and found him clinging to the edge of the toilet, breathing hard, but clearly still alive. Phew. I am so glad that he survived surfing the toilet – I imagine Priyanka probably wouldn’t have been to impressed if I’d dragged her outside at 11pm with me and a dead gecko to perform a funeral. Anyways, it was a highly traumatic experience. I even had a nightmare about it.

Today was a pretty good day, although also pretty relaxed. My treatment session went relatively well for a change today, which was nice because I’d just mentioned to Priyanka earlier in the day that I was looking forward to feeling good at something again, rather than screwing everything up. Today was also the first meeting of the journal club that Priyanka and I are trying to introduce to the PT department. Priyanka picked the article and led the discussion this week, and I will lead a discussion of a different article next week. It was actually probably the liveliest journal club meeting I’ve ever been to! There was a lot of good discussion, and a lot of teaching that happened on our part (the physios here don’t have much of a background in STATS, so we did our best to explain some basics to them, despite not being statisticians ourselves). In any case, we were both pleasantly surprised! Next week is supposed to be a bigger crowd, so we’ll see how it goes!

After work we went to Mylapore to watch a drama-dance program as part of a month long dance and music festival that has been going on in Chennai. It was a really cool experience! The dancer was really talented – she really danced with all parts of her body – from her fingers to her toes. She was also really expressive with her eyes, and it was amazing that she alone played all of the different characters in the story (and even more amazing that she had the stamina to dance alone for over an hour). The music that went along with the dance was really neat too – it was a live band with live vocals. Very cool! By the time the dance program was over it was already getting pretty late, so we headed back to Thiravanmiyur by train and then hopped an auto back to SPASTN. Now we’re just settling in for the night – tomorrow won’t be as early as our weekends have been recently, but we are heading to Mamallapuram for the day, so we’ll need to be out of the house by 9am. Hopefully there won’t be any more gecko incidents tonight!!!

Happy Friday everyone! Stay Warm!

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

December 9th, 2009

Today too new and exciting to report today! Every Wednesday is new assessment day at SPASTN, and we finally managed to convince Ramkumar that it would be interesting for us to sit in on some of the new assessments (rather than sit in the PT department with nothing to do because there are hardly any patients on Wednesdays). It ended up being a totally worthwhile and interesting learning experience! Although we couldn’t really understand what was happening during the verbal part of the assessment (most of it was in Tamil) we observed the hands on part of the assessments, and made our own inferences about the child. Then Ramkumar would pass us the completed assessment form and we could look over it to see if our observations were correct. It was really good! We suggested to him afterwards that if SPASTN has future interns from U of T that they let them sit in on assessments in the first week and then take some of those patients onto their caseload.

In the afternoon we watched a few more assessments and then headed to the library to finish data entry on our tardieu scale project (which we’re not sure if we’re actually finished collecting data for, but nobody has given us any more kids so far), and to do a little reading that Karthik wanted us to do about the perception of disability in India. Although the morning passed quickly, the afternoon seemed to drag on forever – it was really hot in the library, and lets face it: data entry is not that exciting.

At 4pm we made a quick stop back at our room to drop off some of our things, and then headed back to the school to meet up with Karthik. Karthik works in a private pediatric clinic in the evenings, and he’d agreed to let us visit to see what it was like! He helped organize an auto for us – there and back plus an hour of waiting time came out to 300 INR. His clinic (which he started from scratch on his own – very impressive!) is in a building which houses a small private school for kids with disabilities during the day. It is pretty small, but well outfitted – they even have a short wave diathermy machine! (Which by the way pretty much nobody uses in Canada but is still relatively ubiquitous in India).

When we got to the clinic, Karthik introduced us to everyone (we already knew Prem – a physio that also works at SPASTN during the day), and took us to the back room for a snack. He explained that in India when people receive visitors the best thing they can do to welcome them is to feed them. We each had a really tasty “egg puff”. It made us feel really special and welcome, although we didn’t want them to make too big a deal out of us being there! We’re just students after all. Karthik had Prem explain all of the administrative ins and outs of the clinic to us, and then we watched a bit of one of his treatment sessions and also an SLP treatment session. At this point we’d been there for almost an hour, and we didn’t want to keep our auto waiting too long (for fear of getting charged extra), so we said our goodbyes and headed out.

The auto ride home was a little bit hairy as always, but ultimately we made it back in one piece. We had him drop us off at Ascendas, and we treated ourselves to some tasty (and different!) Indian food – some kind of sweet tasting paneer concoction and a vegetable curry, served with Parotas and Naan. Yum!

We had to do the snake walk again tonight, but I have to admit, it gets less scary every time we do it. The security guard brought both his big stick and his flashlight tonight, plus we had our guard dog Blackie following behind.

It was pretty late already by the time we got back – our evenings seem to be going by so quickly these days! We managed to book tickets for a tour to Mamallapuram for this Saturday, and planned out what we’re going to do with our last few days here. Now we’re just writing some post cards, and then we’ll probably head to bed!

Goodnight!

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

December 8th, 2009

Today was a pretty good day! Going through those evaluations with our preceptors yesterday has made SUCH a big difference in their teaching styles. So, as much as we felt badly about giving them a poor evaluation, I guess it was a necessary wake up call. In any case, I really enjoy working with Ramkumar now – he explains everything that he’s doing, and now always asks us if we want to try. It’s fantastic. My treatment session today didn’t go that wonderfully, but such is life. I was working with a different PT’s patient, and he just didn’t agree with anything I wanted to do. It was frustrating, but a good learning opportunity all the same.

We ate lunch with Natalie again today! She seems like a really adventurous person – after she finishes here at SPASTN she’s heading to a remote village in the Himalayas to teach English there! Anyways, we’re still hoping that she will join us on some of our adventures – she’s a busy gal though! She’s doing online courses for university (she’s a teaching major) at the same time as volunteering here!

After work we decided to visit St. Thomas Mount, where it is said that St. Thomas (the apostle that spread “the word of God” to India) was speared to death while praying. We managed to flag down an auto driver who was willing to take us there, wait for us for an hour and then drive us back for 250 INR. Seemed like a pretty good deal! To get to St. Thomas Mount you climb up 134 steep stone steps – which made me realize exactly how out of shape I am now that I’m not running 4 days a week anymore! The view at the top was totally worth it though – we could see almost all of Chennai spread out before us. I hadn’t really realized exactly how big Chennai was until today! We were also pretty much right next to the airport – so close that we could see the runway! At the top of the hill there is St. Thomas Shrine, a pretty little church. We spent a few minutes inside and then headed back out to watch the sun set over Chennai. It was the first sunset we’ve seen since arriving in India, and very beautiful indeed.




When we got back down to the bottom of the hill we noticed another beautiful church just off to the side – St. Patrick’s. It was a very beautiful, white washed church, and the stained glass was brightly coloured, similarly to that in the Sacred Heart of Jesus in Pondicherry. It seems like this bright stained glass is a theme in Catholic churches in India!



We managed to find our auto driver again (who thankfully didn’t abandon us while we were on the mount!) and started the trip back to SPASTN. The traffic at this time was nightmarish! I guess everyone was on their way home from work etc. It was really crazy. Ultimately it didn’t take us that long to get back home though – we were chowing down on dinner by about 6:30.

The rest of the evening has been pretty relaxed so far. After dinner I talked with my parents on Skype, and have just been catching up on blogging and emails since then. Once I finish this and hopefully post some photos I’ll probably burrow my nose in my book until bed time (I’m almost at the end and its getting good!)

Hope everyone out there is doing well!

December 7th, 2009

Monday was a pretty laid back day. Again, we both awoke with a big case of the Mondays after our wonderful weekend in Pondicherry. Neither of us were really excited to go back to placement. But go we did, and before long we were settling in.

We spent most of the morning finishing up our evaluations with Karthik and Ramkumar. The evaluations of both Priyanka and I went really well. After we finished going through those evaluations it was time for Priyanka and I to go through our site/preceptor evaluation with Karthik and Ramkumar. We had filled out this evaluation in the context of a Neuro internship, and since this placement isn’t actually fulfilling those criteria, there were a lot of “Disagree” and “Strongly Disagree” statements on the evaluation. Needless to say, we weren’t looking forward to sharing it with them. Although they took the evaluation well, they also both really took it to heart. It was a good thing, but it made us feel really badly at the same time. They were genuinely surprised to hear that the internship was not fulfilling our Neuro requirements and had been made into a selective internship, and said that they didn’t want us to be behind our class after we’d come so far for this internship. Although we explained that this wasn’t the case, and we certainly won’t be behind our class, they were still sad. I think when it comes down to it, this all happened because of several miscommunications. Priyanka and I were under the impression that our placement requirements had been made clear to SPASTN by our clinical coordinator (which obviously they hadn’t – either that or the message never reached our supervisors), and at the same time we hadn’t realized how different Indian PT placements are from our own (otherwise we would have made the requirements more clear to begin with). In retrospect we probably should have laid out exactly how Canadian internships are conducted and what our requirements are in the beginning of the internship. Live and learn I guess. We are breaking new ground here for new site for students from U of T to do internships, so I guess it is to be expected that there will be a few bumps in the road. I think that if students come back next year, SPASTN will have a much better idea of what to expect, as will the students that are going.

In the afternoon I had one treatment session (which went really well!) and then we just spent the rest of our time observing Ramkumar. He seemed like a really scary guy at first, but the more we get to know him, the nicer he is. I think deep down he’s actually a gentle giant.

We didn’t do much in the evening except to go to pick up some 5 L jugs of water we’d ordered from a nearby pharmacy and update our blogs. We both hit the hay pretty early so that we could be nice and fresh for Tuesday morning.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Update to Continue Tomorrow

Hey Everyone!

I'm heading to bed now, but check back tomorrow for Monday and Tuesday's update as well as photos from the weekend!

Goodnight!

Weekend in Pondicherry!

SATURDAY

Our trip to Pondicherry started off with a bang when I woke up with a start at 6:30 am and realized that our alarm (which we had set for 5:00 am) had not gone off. We had initially been planning on taking the 6:30 bus, but obviously that plan went out the window. We rushed around like crazy people to get ready, and managed to get out the door in an hour. Thankfully Priya had agreed to walk us to the bus stand (which is around the corner but we weren’t exactly sure where the bus was going to stop). The busses from Chennai to Pondicherry (or Pondy as it is called by the locals) leave every 15 to 30 minutes, and you purchase your tickets (which are a ridiculously good deal for only 55 INR (about $1.25 CAD) one way. The first few buses passed us without stopping because they were full (Pondy is a popular weekend destination for Chennai-dwellers and western visitors alike), and we auto’d to a different bus stop to see if we’d have better luck there. Thankfully we arrived just as another bus, which had two empty seats in it, was pulling out! We hopped on and settled in for the ride.

The bus was curious – picture a greyhound crossed with a school bus. The seats were more bench -like, but numbered, and there was a TV hanging from the ceiling to play DVDs. It was run down by Canadian standards, but it certainly served the purpose for us. The bus filled up quickly, and before long Priyanka, who was in the aisle seat, was getting squished in by a heard of people. All in all the bus ride passed fairly quickly and we got some nice views of the coastline since we chose to take an East Coast Road Express Bus. It took us about 3.5 hours to make the 160 k trip.



We got off of the bus and were immediately overwhelmed by a slew of people. We managed to find a reservation counter, and reserved tickets for our return trip on Sunday, since we were told that those buses get extremely crowded. We then started looking for a prepaid auto stand, but with one no where to be seen, haggled an auto down to 80 INR to take us to our hotel (which in retrospect was too much, but its always hard to judge when you’re in a new city).

We stayed in a place called the Lotus Comfort Hotel, which was not directly in the downtown core, but within walking distance of everything, and much cheaper than the centrally located hotels. We were initially a little bit nervous, since we booked it after researching on the internet (without any formal recommendations from anyone) and were worried that the photos (which looked really nice) might be outdated. The last thing we wanted was to pay 2550 INR to stay in a crap-hole.

Luckily the hotel was beautiful! The staff was really friendly and helpful, and nobody even demanded a tip. Our room was clean, and had the best bathroom that I’ve seen since we arrived in India. We dropped off our things and headed out to explore the city.



Our first stop was for lunch at a place we picked out of my guidebook called Le Terrasse. Pondicherry was initially a French settlement and still has a lot of European influence. Even the street signs are both in French and in Tamil! Lunch was tasty – we both got pizza. I had a paneer pizza (just to be different) and Priyanka had some kind of meaty concoction with an Egg in the middle.



After lunch we decided to walk to the Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral, supposedly the most beautiful church in Pondy. It was beautiful indeed – all red and white, with two enormous towers. When we got there we noticed a big crowd in front of the church – it turns out they were filming some kind of movie! We watched for a while, intrigued by the actress dancing in the wind, but eventually snuck around the crew to get inside the actual Cathedral. Sacred Heart was just as impressive from the inside as the outside – it had gorgeous stained glass work everywhere! It was actually quite different than most catholic churches I’ve been to in Canada – the stained glass was much brighter and the inside was much more colourful in general.



After visiting the church we wandered through the streets of “downtown” Pondicherry – or the old French area. It was really pretty. The houses look very different from houses that we’ve seen in Chennai – you could really see the European influence. Eventually we ended up at the beach. The beach in Pondy is again, very different than one in Chennai. It has a short strip of red sand, and then a steep embankment of black rocks heading down to where the sea crashes up against the shore. We sat there for quite a long time, enjoying the perfectly blue sky, the spray of the water against our faces, the salty smell and the warm afternoon sunlight. It was incredibly relaxing and peaceful. After a while we got up and began to walk down the beach. We came across a vendor selling fresh fruit, and we convinced him to open up a fresh pineapple and papaya for us (so we could make sure we didn’t get the ones that had been sitting in the sun for a while). It was a (delicious) steal for only 10 INR for a HUGE cup full of fruit.



We meandered down the beach, people watching (we started a count of how many white people we were seeing but we lost count after about 23) and just enjoying the sites. Eventually we found the tourist information center, which wasn’t super helpful, but did have a clean bathroom. We walked all the way to the other end of the beach (about 1.5 km) where there is a huge statue of Mahatma Gandhi. We then hopped back onto the road and poked around into some of the beach side shops that are there.

At this point it was nearing 5 pm, and we wanted to visit the Sri Aurobindo Ashram before it closed. This ashram is apparently one of the best known in all of India. It was founded by the philosopher Aurobindo Ghosh, and his personal assistant/disciple “The Mother”. It was very quiet and peaceful inside – there are flowers everywhere, and the smell of incense wafts gently through the air. People line up to touch/worship the mausoleum of Aurobindo and the Mother, and then they sit and meditate in front of the grave. It was slightly creepy, but oddly peaceful at the same time. After you’re finished meditating you get shuffled into a big bookstore – this is where we started to wonder a little bit if this place was slightly cultish. In the bookstore they sold such gems as “The Ideal Child” and “How to Raise the Ideal Child”. In any case it was a really interesting experience. The ashram is very wealthy and has a huge influence in Pondicherry – you’ll notice walking through the streets that many of the stores have “Auro” in their name!

At this point the sun was starting to go down, but we decided to take a walk and visit “Hot Bread” a café mentioned in my guidebook, for a quick tea. It wasn’t anything too remarkable, and we soon were on our way again, to have dinner in Le Rendezvous, another guidebook find.

Dinner at Le Rendezvous was good, but nothing too exciting. I had cannelloni and garlich bread and Priyanka had some kind of fish in mustard sauce. It was a cool place though – we were seated on a rooftop patio (though admittedly not as awesome as the one we dined at in Bangalore), where we could hear the sounds of the city. It seemed to be a popular place for Westerners (ex-pats perhaps?) to eat because the clientele was predominantly white.

Stuffed to the brink, we hopped an auto around 9pm and headed back to our hotel, dessert from Hot Bread in hand. We took some time to relax and read in the hotel (which was deliciously mosquito free) and then enjoyed our pastry flan and almond croissant before heading to bed. The end of another amazing day!

SUNDAY

Sunday was another early day for us – we decided to get up at 5:15 so that we could make it down to the beach in time to watch the sunrise over the Bay of Bengal. It was quiet and chilly when we left at about 5:45am. The early wake up was totally worth it – the sunrise was beautiful. It was such a surreal experience for me…I kept thinking, man I can’t believe I’m sitting here in India, watching the sunrise over the Bay of Bengal. This is an experience that most people only dream of. I think it hit me this weekend, just how special this trip is, and how much of a once in a lifetime experience it is. Its sad to think that I may never get to experience these places again, and certainly not in the way I am experiencing them now. I am so thankful for this experience…and proud of myself too. A few years back I never would have dared to go so far from home.



After the sunrise we walked back to the hotel, enjoyed hot showers (with the hotel’s totally luxurious shower head) and then ordered up our free continental breakfast of fresh watermelon juice, toast with jam and coffee. Yum!

After breakfast we headed back out and hopped on an auto rickshaw to Auroville. Auroville is just slightly North of Pondicherry and was inspired by “The Mother” sometime in the late 60’s. It is a curious place – its said to be the most new age place in India, with a population that is about 2/3’s non-Indian. In principal I thought it was amazing – they aspire to be a place where people from all over the world can live in peace, and they are very ecologically conscious. They cook with solar energy, grow most of their own food and have their own water treatment plants. They also have outreach programs for neighbouring communities where they teach women how to make paper products (a program called Well-Paper – products like coasters made from recycled newspaper) to provide a source of income for their families. So in that sense it was a really amazing place – but at the same time Priyanka and I couldn’t shake a slightly cult-ish feeling again. The other thing that we didn’t like was the commercial aspect of it – one of the first things that you come into is a pavilion of boutiques where they sell things made by Aurolites and the surrounding villagers. I understand that this is where a lot of their revenue comes from, but it was kind of off putting all the same.

One of the main sites of Auroville is the Matrimandir –a giant gold dome built near the geographical center of the “city” (its not really a city – very lush and green and we didn’t actually see any houses). The dome is apparently all white inside (you have to reserve a day in advance to go inside, so we didn’t get a chance) and has a crystal orb in the center. I guess it is a popular spot for meditation for the Aurolites. Next to the Matrimandir is a large amphitheatre – a red stone hollow where one can address a crowd of 3000 without any electronic amplification. In the amphitheater is an urn that contains the soil of 124 countries – symbolism of one of the things that Auroville stands for.



We sat for a while just looking at the Matrimandir (its pretty amazing) and then we walked back to the visitor’s center to grab some lunch at one of their cafes. Lunch was awesome – I had white bean salad, beet soup, carrot salad and ratatouille with brown rice. It was a huge meal for only 90 INR! Something that you could get at a place like Vegetarian Haven in Toronto but would undoubtedly pay WAY more for.



On our way back from Auroville we had a bit of a frustrating experience mostly due to a huge miscommunication with an auto driver. First of all we had to wait for a long time to get an auto (we were starting to worry that we’d never make it out of Auroville) and then the driver we got didn’t really speak English and ended up taking us somewhere totally different than where we’d wanted to go (which was back to our hotel). When we showed him on the map where we wanted to go he got really mad an demanded extra money. We argued with him for a while (which didn’t do much good since he didn’t really speak English) and finally a nice, concerned shopkeeper (who spoke excellent English) intervened. We ended up having to walk back to our hotel, but it turned out okay. After picking up our bags at the hotel we made a quick stop at Baskin Robbins and then spent our remaining time relaxing on the beach. Sadly it was soon time to catch our bus.

Getting onto a return bus was a whole different kettle of fish. We got to the bus station pretty early, so we wanted to get on an earlier bus than what we were reserved on. It took us a long time to figure out which buses were coming in (all of the signs were in Tamil) but eventually we discovered that they wrote the departure time on the front of the bus in chalk when the bus arrived in the terminal. We hung around for a while and ended up on the 5pm bus, rather than the 5:30 bus. We got seats in a three-seat bank, next to a man who was coughing his lungs out. Who wants to take bets on whether or not my next TB test will come back positive? This bus ride was an adventure to say the least. I didn’t actually have room to put my shoulders against the seat, but even worse, Priyanka was literally being crushed in by a crowd of people. There was one point where this one lady was pretty much sitting on her arm, and there was a baby balanced on the seat back in front and behind her. I was pretty much a traveling road show for the kids, so whenever one would start to cry the parents would put them on the seat back to look at me. In any case, we were both relieved when we finally arrived back in Chennai. We got off at the bus stop close to SPASTN and quickly auto’d back to the compound. Although it was still quite early, we were both exhausted from our early morning, lots of walking and the crazy bus ride, and we turned in pretty early.

What an awesome weekend. I can’t believe how much we’ve seen in the 3 weeks that we’ve been here – we’ve seen “normal life”, we’ve seen “opulent life”, we’ve seen slums, we’ve seen modern Western life (Bangalore) , European life (Pondy) and then New Age life. India is a country of contrast indeed!